Winter Riding

A guest blog by James Bonamy :

“There are no bad conditions, just bad gear choices”

With the end of Autumn and the start of winter, we get a really quick shift in early morning temperature which can make for subzero temps as a wind chill factor (or just an actual temp deep in the Royal National Park).  Without the right gear, a ride in these conditions can be beyond miserable due to the cold, and potentially even dangerous in risking some temperature related issues on the body. 

The key is layering – as this allows you to cover certain body parts as desired, but also allows you to carry gear to put on or take off without too much bulk.

The easy answer is to buy all the gear, but that can be a decent expense – here is a list of gear to get and potential alternatives that you can use either as a stopgap as you accumulate pieces over time, or just a straight alternative.  Let’s start at the toes and finish at the noggin.

Feet:

For me – If my toes and fingers are warm, then the rest of me is fine.  Given they are the extremities, and both leading the body into the wind on the bike, there are things to take particular attention to;

·       (Ultimate option) Full booty covers – These are coverings that generally go over your full bike shoe (with a hole for the cleat to clip into the pedal) and often will finish part way up your shin.  Completely cut out the wind, and an extra layer for toasty warmth.

·       (Great option) Shoe toe covers – Similar to the booty’s, but cover the front half of your bike shoe only.  Cut the wind off your toes to provide some warmth.

·       (Ultimate option) Merino Thermal Wool socks – Made by some cycle brands, again offering thick woolly goodness to keep out the wind and warmth in.  Combo these with either of the 2 above and you will be a long way from preventing your toes and feet from turning into blocks of dead wood.

Budget friendly alternatives:

·       2 pairs of socks – If no wool socks are available, consider wearing 2 pair.  Just make sure that they are still comfortable enough to put your bike shoe on over the top.

·       Socks on the outside – An old pair of socks or large pair can be pulled over your bike shoe, like a booty cover, just remember to cut a hole for the cleat to be pulled through to ensure clipping into the pedal right.  BE CAREFUL to make sure no loose ends or the sock catching on the pedal when you unclip, so you don’t end up with the old “standing stack” of not being able to get out of the pedal to avoid falling over.

·       Aluminum Foil – Before sliding your foot into your bike shoe, tightly wrap your foot, (which is in your sock) in foil then slip into your bike shoe.  This will provide a barrier to the wind, real thin layer that fits into your shoe and helps your foot stay warm like a nice toasty loaf of garlic bread.  – Hot tip:  Just wrapping your bike shoe inner sole in foil can also provide some improvement if you don’t want to wrap your whole foot, plus it will stay for the whole winter if you don’t want to redo each ride.

Legs:

For me – It’s all about the knees.  Keeping them warm, keeps them pedalling, which warms the rest of the body.

·       (Ultimate) Full length thermal bike knicks – Like normal bike knicks but thicker for warmth and wind and extend to lower shins/ankles, rather than ending above the knee like normal knicks.

·       (Great option) Knee Warmers – These are individual sleeves that you pull on your legs and go under your normal knicks.  At the top end they will be at your upper thighs, and finish down on your calf.  Probably the most popular option as they are easy to slide off mid ride and pop in a pocket if things get warm.  This does mean your bits and butt (technical terms) will be covered by normal knicks only, which might be a little brisk for some.  Also, you will have a piece of exposed skin of 5cm on your shin from the bottom of the knee warmers to the top of your sock, which also has the potential to be cold.  Longer socks may solve this if it is a problem.

Budget Friendly alternatives:

·       Full length exercise leg-ins or compression pants – We all probably have an old pair of these in the draw that are a little worn, or there are potentially very cheap options for them from Kmart, Big W or Decathlon. Under the knicks, can go down to your ankles. Note that you will need to be comfortable with them under your knicks and consider the rule of not wearing undies when wearing knicks as to if this is comfortable or not for you.

·       Thermal full-length thermal tights – Possibly a little bulky under knicks and not exactly aero, but at least they will be skin tight and cut down the windchill.  I would choose the exercise leg-ins/compression option over these, but if push comes to shove and they are comfortable for you, great.

Chest and Arms:

For me – I don’t tend to feel the cold in chest, as long as I have the wind stopped.  But keeping my arms warm is a big priority for me.  Other people are the other way around. 

This is the area where layering is the most important, as it allows you to tailor how warm you want.  Without the ability to layer, you may warm up too much and sweat, but as soon as you stop for a bottle refill etc, and cool down, the sweat can make you cold and unable to warm up again.  The ability to take off and put on as you need is crucial.

·       (Ultimate) Cycling windbreaker/jacket – Does what it says on the box.  Some have options to zip off the arms to make it a vest only, some come with zippers that go both ways to allow you to unzip the bottom half to control air without having to fully unzip and turn into a human flag, or partially unzip the top and turn into a human parachute.  Thermal ones, thin ones, thick ones, waterproof ones…these tops come in all varieties.

·       (Ultimate) Baselayer/undershirt – This is a cycling specific singlet designed to wear under your jersey.  Incredibly lightweight and breathable, it provides a great protection against windchill, while providing warmth and allowing venting so you don’t get too warm.  Some people choose to ride year round wearing one regardless of conditions.

·       (Good) Cycling Windbreaker vest/Gilet – As above, but sleeveless.  A gilet is like putting on another jersey without the sleeves.

·       (Good) Thermal Arm warmers – Similar to the knee warmers.  1 sleeve per arm that you slide on under your jersey.  Great for temp regulation as they can easily be slipped off and put in your pocket as you warm up.  Some people can even do this without stopping, but that’s a little bit more Evil Knievel than I am comfortable with.

·       (Good) Full sleeved Jersey – Self explanatory.

As mentioned, ultimately you will have a few options of the above, that you can mix and match depending on how you see the weather for the day. 

Budget Friendly alternatives:

·       Normal singlet/undershirt – let’s face it, whatever you wear under your jersey isn’t going to be seen, so as long as it is comfortable and does the job, you have zero concerns from the cycling fashion police.  This could be a normal singlet, a running singlet, tank top, compression top, tight t-shirt.  I have found a long sleeve compression shirt makes a fantastic alternative to a baselayer/arm warmer combo and often use this rather than my actual baselayer and arm warmers.

·       2nd jersey – As above, another option is to wear 2 jersey’s.  Nice and aero, comfortable and easy enough to take one off and pop in your back pocket.

·       Jumper – Yep, a good old tracksuit top.  While this might not necessarily be as aero, and you probably don’t have the option to put in your back pocket if it warms up, if it is firm fitting and the weather will stay cool, it provides a great option.  Avoid hoodies as they will parachute.

·       Newspaper/Magazine – What??!  Yep, old school.  To cut the wind riders of yester year would put a newspaper down the front of their jersey.  While we might be past these times, it does provide a good option in a pinch, as it will cut the wind down and can easily be discarded if it warms up.

·       Neck buff – this could be also listed in the other section also, as having something to cover the skin that goes from the top of your jersey to your chin can help.  The aim of the game isn’t necessarily to always provide ultimate warmth, but to cover skin to reduce windchill.  DO NOT USE A SCARF – scarves can be dangerous as despite best efforts and intentions, a loose end can easily end up in a wheel/pedal/crank/catch a handlebar and make for a bad ending.

Hands:

Your fingers are the most forward part of your body on your bike, and they are the first thing that feels the wind chill.  For me – keeping my fingers warm can be the difference between a great morning out or hating every minute.  That being the case, like covering your Chest and arms, deciding what you do to cover your hands/fingers is very much expected weather dependent.

·       (Ultimate – super cold) Cycling deep winter / extreme gloves – These are very similar to snow skiing gloves but have grip pattern designed for handle bars.  No chance of any wind, often waterproof (or can easily be scotch guarded), keep your hands toasty warm.

·       (Ultimate – cold) Full finger gloves – thinner then the extreme gloves, often the happy middle ground for most people who don’t feel the need for anything more. They come in many versions, albeit a bit thicker for thermal or thinner to be more a wind barrier and skin protector only. 

·       (Good) – Fingerless gloves.  While more designed to protect your hands if you fall, they provide a good amount of warmth as they cover the back of the hands, wick sweat and cut the wind down.  But be weary if you get cold fingers, they may not be ideal.

Budget Friendly alternatives:

·       Gardening gloves – From the humble cotton glove to ones that are a faux or leather construction, often they have grip on them for handling garden tools.

·       Snow ski gloves – For cold days, there is nothing to stop you from wearing these. They often have grip on them (to hold ski poles), so you may find they are almost identical to Deep Winter Cycle Gloves.  Just be wary of the bulk of the glove and test that you can change gears and brake comfortably wearing them.

·       Warmth gloves – these include any that you get for normal wearing, whether it be walking, running etc.  Avoid woolen gloves with no grip, as it would be easy for them to slip off the bars.  Along with gloves that are not tight on your hands, as them slipping around your hands can reduce dexterity (which could be dangerous if trying to brake) and could cause blisters from rubbing.

·       Latex/Rubber/washing up gloves – This is a bit of stretch, but are an option to cover your fingers if you only have fingerless gloves (wear them under the fingerless gloves).  I have tried this a few times before getting full fingered gloves, while it did mildly help, as they are not breathable, any sweat stayed in the gloves and has the chance of your fingers getting colder than if you are not wearing gloves.  

Head:

Last but not least – the noggin.  A helmet means we already have a good portion done here.  It sounds a bit cheeky, but natural covering (hair) provides the best insulation, but for the follicle-ly challenged, or to keep the ears warm, more is required.

·       (Ultimate) – Cycling Skull cap – Like a beanie but made super thin thermal material with ear flaps to cover ears.  Fits snugly under helmet.

·       (Good) – Cycling cap – Snug little hat with a small brim to fit under helmet.  May not have the thermal qualities of the skull cap and won’t cover the ears, but will provide ample warmth.

·       (Good) – Cycling headband – Similar to the skull cap in design, covers the ears.

Budget Friendly options:

·       Beanie – obviously without any pom-poms.  It’s important to make sure it is not too bulky so it fits under your helmet comfortably, but also to make sure that your helmet is not too far from the surface of your head and is still effective.

·       Baseball cap (with the brim cut off) – Provides similar effect to a cycling cap, and also may allow for your ears to be ticked into it.

·       Headband – Not just for 80’s aerobic workouts, it allows you to cover your ears and forehead.

·       Bandana/piece of material – This can include cutting a t-shirt up in the shape of a bandana.  The goal is to provide another layer between head and air to reduce windchill, which this can achieve.

At the end of the day, warmth and comfort is the goal, so there are no rules, other then safety and trying things to keep your ride happ